Life and Times in the Southern Capital
Western Restuarants.. to do or not to do
One problem that I’ve run into before (and more so lately) is that certain local friends approach me and want to partner up and do a Western restaurant.
Sure I’ve had a good amount of experience in restaurants back home prior to my professional career, even on up to the management level despite being a college student at the time. I have no doubt that I could create a decent menu at non-gouge prices (hell I have even gotten pretty efficient at doing it in a home kitchen now, even without economies of scale). The problem I see is that there just isn’t a large enough market in Nanjing to make it worth while. You could probably get past the break even point and even make a little (very little) cash as well as having a place of your own to entertain friends while feeling like a big shot, but I’ve been there and done that, and it’s not as great as it seems, as nearly every night, some “friend” wants to hang out, etc. Plus, calling it a real smart use of capital would be a stretch IMHO, not to mention the HUGE amount of work it takes to make a restaurant function on a daily basis (in addition to your “real job”).
I’ve tried most halfway decent “Western” restaurants in Nanjing at least once or twice, and with a few exceptions, I’ve never been enticed to return to an establishment based on their offerings alone (it’s usually a lack of alternative choices, or just happening to be in the area). But knowing that not everyone shares my tastes, this isn’t a huge factor in deciding not to enter the fray, what is a huge factor is that I never see these restaurants too busy. Add to that that even when we are one of the few tables in the place, it seems somewhat unorganized, which leads me to believe that they have never been that busy on a regular basis, or they would have worked out the kinks so that when I am there on what would then appear to be one of their slower nights, it would be a breeze for them. There also seems to be little correlation between what I think is a somewhat decent restaurant and their level of business, meaning that often what I think is a horrible restaurant will have more customers than a decent restaurant. Case in point, why does Tacos regularly have more customers than someplace like Les 5 Sens or My Place? Sure, their locations may be better, and they have a bit more name recognition, being in Nanjing for 6-7 years, with multiple locations. But seriously, can anyone honestly say that Tacos is better, realistically it is more likely that they are more accessible to locals. The menu is packed with some old “favorites” of Chinese Western restaurants, Spaghetti Bolognese, Pizza, Fries etc
It is the same as the US, in more gentrified areas, generic “Western” Chinese food is more popular that the authentic stuff. It would be pretty difficult to directly transfer a popular Nanjing Chinese restaurants to a mid-tier US city and expect to be successful. It’s just not what the clientele want. Fortunately they do want Sweet & Sour Chicken, Egg Rolls, etc. I just don’t think that there is a equivalent “Chinese” style of Western food that Chinese will like to that extent (And in a city with as few foreigners as Nanjing, the local clientele would be crucial to long term sustainability). Even though a place like Tacos has more business, I wouldn’t say it’s packing them in like the moderately successful Chinese food restaurants (Or even local Korean, Thai and Japanese restaurants for that matter).
Anybody have an opinion? Is it a lost cause for decent Western food in Nanjing, or am I just a pessimist (No wait, I am definitely a pessimist, but is it justified in this situation?)?
Note: If any of the above is unclear, blame my coauthor, Jack Daniels.
| Print article | This entry was posted by Nanjinged on December 29, 2009 at 1:44 am, and is filed under Food, Nanjing, Restaurant. Follow any responses to this post through RSS 2.0. You can leave a response or trackback from your own site. |
about 8 months ago
you’re right, there’s no market in nanjing with so few foreigners..
about 8 months ago
Hi Man, nice blog.
Nanjing road market aka taobao market is a market where are located some fake friend who want to bring you to a store to touch comissions from the seller.
Best advice is to scream to the guys who want to escort you. ” No I don’t need your help ”
because if not, price will be higher.
regards
about 6 months ago
1) Where are Les 5 Sens and My Place?
2) I know you kind of poo-pooed pizza as old hat, but I love the pizza at Bella Napoli. Will try some of their other offerings soon. Pizza Slut and Papa John’s have ruined Chinese people’s opinion of pizza.
3) How did Subway go from four to two to zero? I think location and advertising (read: lack there of) factor into a lot of what you wrote about, no? The former you did mention. Subway is supposedly opening again at the end of February.
4) Nanjing does seem to have the lowest ratio of foreigners to locals of any city I have been in in China. Does anyone care to speculate on the reasons?
about 6 months ago
1) Les 5 Sens is on Hankou lu, just a few min walk east from Shanghai Lu, My Place is a bit more complicated, for directions I suggest checking out: http://www.hellonanjing.net/nanjing-best/my-place/170-tutorial-how-to-find-my-place-wine-bar
2) I actually like Papa Johns here, but it MUST be the thin cracker crust, their other crusts are pretty typical Chinese thick crust
3) Subway has a tough path to blaze, McDonalds had name recognition and both McD’s and to a larger extent KFC had something more familiar to offer than a footlong meatball sub (namely fried chicken, or fried chicken sandwiches or wings). Would be surprised if they ever make it in China outside of expat centered areas
4) Well, lower than first tier cities like Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, etc. But I think Nanjing has more foreigners than many other 2nd tier cities, though a large portion of them are students, so don’t have as large a disposable income to use supporting Western restaurants
about 1 month ago
Like your entries about places to eat and wine stuff. I used to work in the industry back home too (Australia). You are absolutely right – Good Western food is impossible to find.
Went to Das Schiff the other night. Lots going for it – Top location, lovely setting – good layout & building. And that’s where it ended. The food was ordinary, the wine – none the beer-overpriced, and the service – point and click is the best way to describe it – unless you are lucky enough to strike the one waitress who actually speaks a little English.
My Place is good – pricey – but JT is a most congenial host. The rest are “also rans”, even Les 5 Sens really.
Even so, I still think there IS a market out there for somewhere mid-range that sells good basic western food. Just hopeful someone else will recognise it soon!!
about 2 weeks ago
Yea, that Les5Sens impression was based on a couple visits awhile ago now, from what I’ve heard it has gone downhill a bit in the last year. I definitely think someone could make some money, just don’t think there is that potential to really make a huge profit like there is in Shanghai. But I guess Shanghai is just a larger stakes game, bigger winners and bigger losers.
Rereading this reminded me of a quote that usually proves very true for many restaurateurs:
“How do you make a little money in the restaurant business? First, start off with a lot of money….