Nanjinged
Life and Times in the Southern Capital
Life and Times in the Southern Capital
Apr 1st
Black Man Dragon Well Green Tea Toothpaste
Despite any moral issues with the “Black Man” brand, this toothpaste is awesome, not scientifically or results wise, those I can’t attest to, but the taste is great. What first sounds like it may be odd or disgusting actually works out really well. Once I tried this stuff, I couldn’t switch back to typical mint flavored stuff. Just hoping I don’t get tea stains on my teeth from my toothpaste….
More info on Darlie aka Darkie aka 黑人牙膏 (Blank Man Toothpaste)
Apr 1st
In news from South China Morning Post:
Birmingham City, the English Premier League side owned by businessman Carson Yeung Ka-sing, have confirmed that they will be playing in Hong Kong this summer.
The Blues will face the Hong Kong team on July 16 as part of their Asian tour, which includes matches in Nanjing, Beijing and a fourth city yet to be decided.
Birmingham are currently ninth in the league table and still have a chance to qualify for the Europa League next season if they can finish at least sixth. They still have six matches to play.
….
Meanwhile, a squad of three local players will be selected to join City on their Asian tour before following the team back in England for a three-week training stint in their soccer academy.
The game will almost surely take place at Olympic stadium, though it is unclear at this point who their opponent will be, as it won’t likely be Hong Kong as the article states 3 Hong Kong players will join Birmingham City for the Asia tour following their Hong Kong match. But should be a good time and a rare chance to see some international sport in Nanjing (That is until the Youth Olympics come to town!). I’ll be keeping an eye out for more info on this as the match date approaches.
Mar 30th
At 5 pm today searches via google.cn (which currently redirects to google.hk) and google.com started to intermittently trigger connection resets after searches were attempted. Within a couple hours any & all searches would trigger a connection reset (i.e. you would get an error message page instead of the expected search results). It seems that occasionally I am able to still get a search result in different ways (via Firefox search tool bar, etc), but looks like a message is being sent loud and clear to Google HQ.
Forbes story: http://www.forbes.com/2010/03/30/china-blocks-google-tech-markets-firewall.html?boxes=Homepagechannels
Mar 29th
Been awhile and I’ve actually been to a few decent Western restaurants since I last posted about food in Nanjing. The first surprise was Les 5 Sens, a smallish French restaurant near NanDa off Shanghai lu. While I have heard mutterings that it has gone down hill, it wasn’t too bad the last time I was in, though it has been a bit since I’ve visited.
The dining room isn’t huge so if you have more than 4 people or so, I would definitely call ahead. Our party of 2 had no problem getting a table right away at ~8 on a weekday night. The prices are about average to below average overall for Western run places in Nanjing. The fillet is only ~65RMB or so, for a little extra you can choose a sauce, I opted for the bleu cheese. Steak was decently cooked and seasoned, the sides on the plate and the complimentary bread were nothing to write home about, and the wine was about average prices for Nanjing, which unfortunately translates to a bottle of sub par French table wine for 200RMB. But all in all a pleasant experience for Western food in Nanjing.
On a somewhat unrelated note, the selection of wine at Metro has taken a noticeable swing downwards in price, stocking more and more bottles under and around 100RMB. I recently picked up a bunch of bottles, including a 29RMB bottle of Spanish red table wine. I just had to see what a 29RMB bottle of imported wine would taste like. Not surprisingly the answer was, not very good, but still preferable to Dynasty or Great Wall. There are a bunch of decent options at the ~50RMB price point, much better than most other foreign wine shops around town. (For those unaware, Metro is a warehouse style wholesale grocery store. They sell large quantities of food, restaurant equipment, appliances, just about anything you can think of. They also have lots of imported & foreign type goods like BBQ grills, western holiday decorations, cheese, wine, liquor, etc. You are supposed to have membership, but you can usually just get a “day pass” at the entrance, or just ask the person in front\behind you in line to use their membership card.)
Les 5 Sens:
Hankou Lu Location:
鼓楼区汉口路52-1号(近南京大学)
More info: http://www.dianping.com/shop/2016484
Beijing Dong Lu Location:
鼓楼区北京东路兰家庄3号(近九华山路)
More info: http://www.dianping.com/shop/3367933
Metro (麦德龙)
近郊雨花台区卡子门大街98号
More info: http://www.metro.com.cn/metro/front.do?go=biztool_common_pg_StoreEditWeb&store_id=8103
Jan 27th
Dec 29th
One problem that I’ve run into before (and more so lately) is that certain local friends approach me and want to partner up and do a Western restaurant.
Sure I’ve had a good amount of experience in restaurants back home prior to my professional career, even on up to the management level despite being a college student at the time. I have no doubt that I could create a decent menu at non-gouge prices (hell I have even gotten pretty efficient at doing it in a home kitchen now, even without economies of scale). The problem I see is that there just isn’t a large enough market in Nanjing to make it worth while. You could probably get past the break even point and even make a little (very little) cash as well as having a place of your own to entertain friends while feeling like a big shot, but I’ve been there and done that, and it’s not as great as it seems, as nearly every night, some “friend” wants to hang out, etc. Plus, calling it a real smart use of capital would be a stretch IMHO, not to mention the HUGE amount of work it takes to make a restaurant function on a daily basis (in addition to your “real job”).
I’ve tried most halfway decent “Western” restaurants in Nanjing at least once or twice, and with a few exceptions, I’ve never been enticed to return to an establishment based on their offerings alone (it’s usually a lack of alternative choices, or just happening to be in the area). But knowing that not everyone shares my tastes, this isn’t a huge factor in deciding not to enter the fray, what is a huge factor is that I never see these restaurants too busy. Add to that that even when we are one of the few tables in the place, it seems somewhat unorganized, which leads me to believe that they have never been that busy on a regular basis, or they would have worked out the kinks so that when I am there on what would then appear to be one of their slower nights, it would be a breeze for them. There also seems to be little correlation between what I think is a somewhat decent restaurant and their level of business, meaning that often what I think is a horrible restaurant will have more customers than a decent restaurant. Case in point, why does Tacos regularly have more customers than someplace like Les 5 Sens or My Place? Sure, their locations may be better, and they have a bit more name recognition, being in Nanjing for 6-7 years, with multiple locations. But seriously, can anyone honestly say that Tacos is better, realistically it is more likely that they are more accessible to locals. The menu is packed with some old “favorites” of Chinese Western restaurants, Spaghetti Bolognese, Pizza, Fries etc
It is the same as the US, in more gentrified areas, generic “Western” Chinese food is more popular that the authentic stuff. It would be pretty difficult to directly transfer a popular Nanjing Chinese restaurants to a mid-tier US city and expect to be successful. It’s just not what the clientele want. Fortunately they do want Sweet & Sour Chicken, Egg Rolls, etc. I just don’t think that there is a equivalent “Chinese” style of Western food that Chinese will like to that extent (And in a city with as few foreigners as Nanjing, the local clientele would be crucial to long term sustainability). Even though a place like Tacos has more business, I wouldn’t say it’s packing them in like the moderately successful Chinese food restaurants (Or even local Korean, Thai and Japanese restaurants for that matter).
Anybody have an opinion? Is it a lost cause for decent Western food in Nanjing, or am I just a pessimist (No wait, I am definitely a pessimist, but is it justified in this situation?)?
Note: If any of the above is unclear, blame my coauthor, Jack Daniels.
Dec 16th
So every Chinese person I’ve talked to the last day or so has told me that it is going to snow in Nanjing in the next couple days, but here I sit and still no snow.
Looking on TV and the internet there doesn’t seem to be any info. It seems Chinese media isn’t as weather crazy as US media. Back in the states a significant portion of the local news is dedicated to weather, and when an impending storm is in the forecast they ramp it up ten fold.
It seems odd to me that the population is always talking about the weather, yet the media never seems to focus on it much at all. Even a couple years back when there was the historic snow storm in the area, much of the coverage was of the aftermath, nothing really on the forecast front.
Where can I get an accurate forecast and maybe some Doppler images, instead of just going by the word on the street?
Dec 13th
Dear Santa,
As Christmas is fast approaching, I thought I would get you my wish list.
1. Unblock Facebook and Twitter.
Come on Santa, I’m sure you have some pull with the Chinese authorities. You both are big fans of the color red, seem to enjoy smoking, and are major producers of toys internationally. I’ll even add you as my Facebook friend.
2. Mexican Food
A couple of years ago, I wouldn’t have even thought of asking, but now that Shanghai has a couple of decent places, I thought Nanjing should get its shot soon. Hurry up, my home attempts are seeming more and more edible, which can’t be a good sign for my palate.
3. Metro Line 2
I like the subway, but with just one line it isn’t always that useful. While the second line won’t make it perfect, it will be nice to go East to West for a change.
4. BMW 750i
Hey, a guy can dream can’t he?
Nov 13th
As I was preparing for what I had assumed would be another multi-bottle baijiu evening with the fellas last week, I was pleasantly surprised (and apprehensive) that we were going to veer into the unknown area of a liquor that was new to me. It was referred to as jing jiu and the bottle said Zhong Guo Jiu (i.e. China Liquor), so wasn’t sure what to expect. I was told it was helpful to male virility, but that claim often comes just before I sample something especially horrid.
So, I manned up and toasted the guy across from me, bracing myself for the worst. First impression.. not as bad as baijiu (though nothing else I have drank in my life is worse than baijiu either). Starts off smooth and finished really musky… like Old Spice aftershave musky… though after a few toasts it wasn’t so bad.
Didn’t know it was called Chinese Whiskey until I looked it up online, so maybe that’s not even true. Not sure if the virility claims are true either. Afterward I didn’t go out and hump a bunch of lamp posts or anything, well not any more lamp posts than usual.
Final Verdict: Better than baijiu, drink it if you ever wondered what aftershave tastes like

Oct 30th
So from word of mouth I started looking for info on the new bar\restaurant\casino\wtf? venue Studio 21. My searches led me to hellonanjing.net and am I ever glad they did.
It is a decent expat guide to Nanjing with a forum and good articles, podcasts etc. While I had been a fan of Nanjingnow, the main things I thought held them back were the lack of user registration (thus the source of alot of the anonymous name calling on the boards) and the lack of a well organized review system in restaurant\bar reviews. As luck may have it, it is in these areas that Hello Nanjing shines the most. The site has obvious room to grow, but the technological infrastructure is there to support the growth. The problem any Nanjing expat site is obviously going to have is the lack of foreigners in Nanjing providing info, while we may never be able to fight the big boys in China like shanghaiexpat.com, at least Hello Nanjing has given us the battlefield to try and build something useful for us “2nd Tier City” expats. While they veer more heavily towards the Shanghai Lu & Sheraton’s areas of the city, there is useful info there for all. I for one am excited to see what plans they have for the future.